Day 25 - Dungloe to Killybegs - 105 kms

Could easily have titled this Henley hits double bricked wall after looking at the sorry state of the wet mess that crawled into the B&B at Killybegs!

Had some fine early riding in warmish conditions along winding roads with steep pinches in this increasingly isolated part of the Donegal peninsular. You knew this as the area has road signs on Gaelic only with names of towns often bearing little resemblance to the English names you'd have on a map!

Towering Mtns soon signalled a change of scenery and some hard riding. A 5 km winding road at Glangesh pass required us to negotiate gradients of up to 17% as we climbed for spectacular views of the valley behind us.

Incredible vista at Slieve League !

A descent towards the coast and lunch was frighteningly fast with narrow and rough road conditions shaking the bejesus out of the bikes. Another steep climb and another big descent brought us through Carrick to Tellin and the turnoff to some of the most amazing scenery you'll see anywhere in the world

The cycle to Slieve League was 7kms of torture with 3 short climbs near the end of 20% requiring kgs of sweat by the pannier carrying brigade while Paul with his lightweight bike and superior climbing skills literally flew up.

A sign advising motorists to park 2kms from the viewing pt at Bunglass signalled what was ahead with the narrow road hugging a cliff face with in parts a ridiculous drop to the Atlantic ocean below which I could easily see sitting perched on my bike

We finally arrived at the small car park to be treated to stunning views of sea cliffs rising straight from the ocean for some 2000ft - these cliffs are designated as the highest in Europe KH even impressed "Awright I suppose"!

By now the rain had moved in as well as the gloom and the 24km ride to Killybegs became a war of attrition negotiating steep climbs and bullet like rain on descent

I was sooooo glad to take Pauls offer to wait on road for Kev who was at this stage nearly 30mins behind (had hit the wall) as I could get warm in our b&b

Kev eventually crawled in speechless until he'd had a warm cuppa - over food and a few pints we all admitted it had been a tough day with fantastic cycling and incredible scenery. Paul's odo had showed we'd climbed some 1600 meters over the day which wasn't too bad for us old buggers

We thanked Paul for his great effort in organizing our 3 days riding and b&bs and promised that we'd look after him if he ever made it to OZ - we figure putting lead weights on him and requiring him to ride backwards up Donna Buang on a 40c day would be an appropriate way tp show our appreciation!

Some more Henleyism's

-"I never sleep in the afternoon" Henley fell asleep within 5 mins of starting our car journey to Larne today'- In falling asleep he hadn't realized we'd crossed back into Nthn Ireland when looking perplexed when told he'd presented the wrong currency(euros) at a shop we'd stopped
at!

Henley with a high calorie banana sandwich lunch ! 

-"I'm absolutely stuffed" said the sodden mess called Kevin Henley when he crossed the finish line in Killybegs 30 mins behind after riding the last 17kms in teeming rain - the reason might have had something to do with the 105 kms travelled which included a set of 20% climbs and Kevs insistence on having a mainly fruit orientated lunch

- Imagine my amazement when KH who often says he does not drink sculled a pint in a pub recently - "I was thirsty"was his reply - I can see why he doesn't drink !

- Kevs persistence in asking for a pint of OJ every time he goes into a pub despite the fact that OJ only comes in small bottles in pubs (mixers) and would require about 10 bottles and £10 to fill the glass - when KH realises this he quickly says no thx

- Sitting in area designated for wheelchair users on return to Scotland by ferry - "I'm disabled" said KH after 300 kms in last 3 days of riding in Ireland

- When told that service station sign he was looking at indicated a service station was in fact on top of a Mtn in Donegal he simply replied looking up "that's a strange place to put a service station"!

Lol



-

Henley goes Flat!

After 3700 collective Kms Kev had team Oz's first puncture of the trip when riding to Letterkenny. The Canondale workhorse has responded to Kevs love and attention with little else going wrong save for some worn brake pads which in Kevs words are not that important!

As for the Avanti hybrid it has taken a bit of a hammering during the 3800 kms ridden by self to date requiring -

1 x new tyre (split wall)
2 x sets of brake pads
1 x set of bearings for pedal
1 x new rear pannier rack
+

Work to fix a broken chain and 3 visits to bike shops to fix slipping gears apparently according to Paul due to a bent Derailleur

+

Tyres with small strips of rubber missing after riding through freshly laid bitumen

One can only assume that Henleys love and devotion is currently paying off but the fact he actually has conversations with his bike is a little worrying...

Day 24 - Letterkenny to Dungloe - 78kms

It was a late start courtesy of Pauls late arrival and Henley's outrageous behaviour the night when he sculled a pint (yes this is the same man who does not drink!) - this behaviour set a bad example to Paul and self and it wasnt till after midnight that we exited the pub!

A telling climb out of Letterkenny settled the alcohol while and 20kms of winding roads got our road legs back working before a terrific climb and descent in the Dunveagh national park that took us past the highest mountain in Donegal (300 metres) and most likely as Paul told us the world!

While i was not entirely gullible Henley let the oz contingent down when told a sign at the Mtn car park that said food shop and service station 1 km (actually pointing down the road not up the Mtn) was in fact indicating services on top of the Mtn - Kev replied incredulously"why would you have a service station up there"!

Lunch was at the bottom of a great descent near Gweedore where Kev and I discussed ways of slowing down the Irish pocket rocket (Paul) who obviously loves his riding.


A beaut ride after lunch in warm conditions took us near the shoreline before we finally entered picturesque seaside village of Dungloe to told we'd arrive at a good time as they were celebrating their Mary festival - apparently a week long excuse for a piss up that involves music, shows, parades and the crowning of a "Mary".

Kev pretending to navigate on the way to Dungloe ! 

While at the tail end of the festival we had a good time in town listening to a street band playing rock covers- the other interest was watching the locals some of which were in danger of becoming road casualties as the towns main road ran incredibly between the performing band and onlookers meaning those inebriated or those simply dancing had a good chance of being run down by a car - crazy !

Again another few pints and courtesy of Paul we were fast becoming cycling alcoholics but hey what the heck when in Ireland ....

Day 23 -Ballycastle to Letterkenny - 115kms

Awoke to a cold wet morning after previous 3 days of brilliant weather. Equipped with nothing more than main routes road map we said goodbye to our lovely host at Kinbane Head.

30kms put us in Coleraine passing through a no. of Nthn Ireland towns where it seemed every house had it's own large flag proudly demonstrating their own allegiance whethere it be to the Uk or the republic

Letterkenny at last !

This had me a little worried as wearing a bright orange wet weather jacket i vaguely remembered that Orange was the primary colour of one of the Nthn Ireland historical protagnists what or who I was unsure but I hoped it wasn't going to make me a moving target.

Londonderry was 50 kms on requiring us to negotiate 3 lane roundabouts, mix it with fast moving traffic and conduct a grinding 5km climb out of Coleraine. Most disconcerting though was being blessed by another cyclist just as we were about to enter on to a dual carriageway heading into Londonderry - whatever the meaning I was sure this was not a good sign!

Kev found the last 30 kms
articulately tough suffering a puncture before we arrived 6pm in Letterkenny to be told by our hotel that they did not have a booking for us - an hour later a couple of phone calls and some good ol Aussie diplomacy finally resolved the matter - the fact the room was as far away from the as you could get and on 3rd floor and required 2 lifts both of which just allowed 1 pushbike to fit and nothing else had nothing go do with Irish payback!

We met up and had a few pints with our Irish mate Paul who we'd met in Tibet on our Everest ride in 2010 and living in Galway had helped organise our Irish cycling leg as well as ridden part way to join us for 3 days and to ensure that wed have access to a car when finished - a preview of the great hospitality followed.

Day 22 - Rest day Ballycastle - 25 kms

A 3rd consecutive day of sun and "scorching" 20C temperatures constituted a heatwave according to locals as we took a rest day after 5 consecutive days of riding.

With the b&b spectacularly positioned we clambered down cliff steps to view the romantically positioned ruins of Kinbane castle jutting out on a steep headland overlooking the Antrim coast an ideal place for Kev and I to comtemplate the highs and lows of the trip / endurance trial to date

A test of nerve at Carrick a Rede !

After clambering back we took the bikes out sans bike gear to the touristy Carrick a Rede a small rope bridge strung out over a 90ft ocean drop to a nearby Island

Henley "I'm not afraid of heights" (the same bloke who never sleeps in the afternoon) followed closely behind me while I attempted to film trying  not to look down. Almost straight away a high pitched scream pierced the silent conditions "I'm not doing it - I want my mummy" unable to look back I queried Henley on the other side who indicated a 7 yr old had baulked on the bridge and become hysterical - as I don't recall a 7 year old behind me and as the scream sounded vaguely familiar I intend to review the tape and will shortly advise!

After riding back to town (8 miles)we loaded up for dinner just in time to see the sea mist roll in followed by rain signalling an end to our great weather.

Tommorrow is a daunting 120km ride on main roads through Londonderry to Letterkenny something I'm not looking forward to.

Day 21 - Troon to Ballycastle - 75 kms

Oh the gods have finally smiled upon us, perfect weather, perfect cycling conditions and magnificent scenery  made this a day to remember !

It wasn't all plain sailing to start with as in aiming to make our morning ferry we had to gorge down our breakfast then ride like Cadel Evans on steroids !

Mike with stunning views at at Kinbane Head !

The 2 hour sailing on a high speed catamaran was almost uneventful save for one incident where Henley mistook the enlcosed kids playground for the mens toilets (easy to do) - the kids screams soon alerted Kev to put his glasses back on at which point he was frogmarched in the right direction by the parents !

Once off the ferry and out of Larne the cycling was sublime - the coastal road followed the sea for some 30kms passing through scenic seaside villages in parts surrounded by precipitous cliffs - this surely has to be one of the most beautiful rides / drives in the world !

Hitting 30-35km/hr it was not long before we turned off the coastal road at Cushendal for a grinding 5km climb to open moorland before a terrifc descent into Ballycastle with its white sands and perfect weather (a scorcher we're told at 22C)  attracting locals + a few idiots who found the sub zero water temperature suitably enticing.

Our final 4 kms to our accommodation at Kinbane Head provided for some of the most spectacular scenery of the day with high cliffs and off shore islands

In fact the best view of the day was from the front porch of our B&B where Kev and self supped a cuppa taking in the fantastic views (see Kinbane Head on the web)

It was with tears of grattitude that I graciously accepted our host's (Nan) offer to allow us to have our own room for the night partly because I wouldnt have to watch & listen to the drivel (TV) that Henley has subjected me to over the past few weeks but primarily because it allowed my senses to recover from the battering of non stop methane emissions (i prefer the smell of my own unwashed socks) - we love you Kev

Nearly 1500kms covered and in this magnificent part of the world,  it's a rest day tommorrow - what more could you want !

ps thx to Bobbert and Winton for their comments along the way - for others if you wish to hang it on Kivvy  like he reckons I do simply hit the comments section of the blog and reply under the anonymous heading

Cheers M&K
w    the     

Day 20 - Newton Stuart to Troon - 95 kms

A day that promised much and delivered chaos as we decided on different routes to Ayr!

The day started so well as we left Newton Stuart earlyish courtesy of a crap nights sleep at the YHA and we were soon riding through beautiful undulating scenery on a forest trail to Glen Trool.

The going got immediately tougher at this point with a long 4-5% climb - in an interesting break from tradition Team Henley missed the one and only turning pt claiming snow blindness and bitumenitis leaving Team Litchfield at the bottom of a 6km descent for nearly an hour wondering what had gone wrong

Lost in Scotland !

Having to climb another steep hill to gain mobile reception at which pt Kev had confirmed that he was now lost on another route

This was not as surprising as being approached by another cyclist fellow end to ender James Davis (see yesterday's blog) who despite leaving an hour before us had been re routed by his GPS onto an A road where he promptly suffered 3 punctures!

By this time Henley had officially reported in by text as being lost and was advised to head generally towards Troon and report in with the name of a town so
I could guide him with the
Map

Another couple of hours on I was just a little miffed to find out that while I'd been waiting and generally dicking around including a descent that tool me through freshly laid bitumen that clogged my tyres with tar and every rock and piece of dirt around I learnt that Kev was now relaxing and having lunch some 15 kms ahead of me in Ayr

I rode the 15kms at treacle speed on squelching tyres with only 1 intent - to ram the remainder of Kevs lunch up his ...

The rest of the ride while quiet was uneventful going through Ayr, Prestwick and the Royal
Troon golf club to our accommodation on the outskirts if scenic Troon

With a little luck well both end up on the same ferry to Nth Ireland tomorrow but it's
unlikely that Kev will be sitting down without discomfort for a few days!

Ps James made his destination as well despite also going through the same freshly laid bitumen - now I know why the road closed sign some 10kms before was in place!

Day 19 - Kirkcudbright to Newton Stuart - 60kms

This is what tour cycling should be like a relatively short distance meandering down country lanes with fine coastal views, the sun out (now 2 consecutive days) and taking the time to talking to locals and sampling local food fare - the downside Is though at this pace it is likely to take us about 3-5 years to finish !

We left out B&B accommodation late given the short distance and were soon cycling along roads with great coastal scenery of the Solway Firth.

We struck up an interesting conversation with the owner of a property we thought to be a rather unusual church near Barogue which amazingly turned out to be a structure built by a 20th C eccentric owner for his 12 cows - see the property at http://www.castle-haven.com/

A cow shed !!!

An amazing cycle ride through beautiful forest brought us out smack bang in the middle of an estate complete with its manor house style hotel and own golf course. After Kev provided those teeing off with his complete golfing knowledge (about 5 secs worth) we rode into the quaintly named town of Gatehouse of Fleet for a picnic lunch in the warm sun (must have been at least 20C).

A wrong turn and we rode the next 20kms on the main road to Stranrear with traffic sometimes banked back as we rode up the occasional incline

In a stroke of luck we rode into Creech in time to persuade a barmaid to turn on the TV to watch Cadel's triumphing the TDF. Its hard to watch a grown man cry (Kev not Cadel) so we were asked to move on with Kev still making his victory speech on behalf of Cadel to the pubs patrons which inluded a mam and his 2 dogs

We competed the days ride into Newton Stuart with a climb and a steep descent - Kevs a narrow miss with a 4wd !


Had a good dinner in town with passionate adventurer and fellow end to ender James Davis check his site at www.James-Davis.com for his story interestingly he is the last man standing of
his 3 person group after injury claimed his 2 riding partners one his brother who'd flown from Sydney to take part

There's some serious climbing ahead but the journey to Troon and the ferry across to Ireland is only a day away!

Day 18 - Annan to Kirkcudbricht - 90kms

Most Australians in the UK will remember this day for some time no I'm
not talking about Cadel Evans in the Tour De France i'm
talking about the sun finally making an appearance for the first time
mid way through the British summer!

In sublime conditions "Jockstrap Mchenley & "Mega Mcsporran" put easy kms behind them cycling along the Solway and through picturesque Dumfries before beautiful cross country spinning with heaps to see due to the absence of those bloody hedges!

In honour of Cadel's effort the boys also conducted their own time trial to Castle Douglas - according to "Jockstrap" the leg would have been close if he did not have to replace 17 spokes and his bike's drive train!

The day was pretty uneventful although in a first Mchenley rode
a 5kms by himself apparently embarrassed after Mega let rip with a 150 decibel expletive after his panniers came off his pannier rack for the 452nd time on the trip.

The sun is out , the room we have has a view of the river Dee and our shower actually has water pressure above a dribble ... what more could one want ... oh yeah that's right just maybe for Evans to win the TDF!

Kirkcudbright

Day 17 - Once Brewed to Annan - 65 kms

Yep looking out the window the rain was back again although thankfully it had passed on by time of our departure

After a forgettable breakfast at the Y of 6 baked beans and scrambled eggs with the consistency of rubber we hit the trail for some high speed cycling across fairly flat countryside passing through Longtown to the obligatory photo stop at Gretna Green on the Scottish border (goodbye England).

For the sake of our Scottish leg we have assumed our rightful clan names - Jockstrap Mchenley & Mega Mcsporron!

We arrived embarrassingly early at our accommodation in the little to do town of Annan at 230pm in time to watch the real riders in the Tour De France

Over 1200 kms covered and a further 3 days of riding before heading over to Ireland for a change of pace and a few pints of guiness!

Cheers Mike & Kev

Day 16 - Rest Day Once Brewed

Go figure 4 consecutive days of rain when riding 2 rest days and the sun comes out!

With the weather looking good did a 10 km walk along some spectacular sections if Hadrians wall to the Housesteads fort. At 73 miles an amazingly situated structure that would have provided pretty bleak accommodation for most of the 25000 troops when fully staffed nearly 2000 years ago about the same time the Bulldogs last won the flag!

The Amazing Hadrians Wall

Walked back to the YHA by way of the military road to save Kevs ailing leg even though walking along road with no verge with some traffic doing 150km hr+
put our well being at substantial risk- oh what a speed camera or two would make in revenue here

Back at the YHA kev who never sleeps in the afternoon promptly fell asleep - dinner was again at the only available choice the pub next door at twice brewed where I had rescue Kev from a potential international incident after Kev wanted to insert his soup bowl up the rear end of the head bar tender!

Some Henley Moments !

Some of my favourite Henley moments on tour to date !

- Getting thrown of steps of St Pauls in London for failing to notice approaching bishops and dignitaries following an ordination

- Arriving at Mankinholes at 930 pm yha lady said " you're friends arrived at least I think it's you friend because he's so shattered he can't talk"!

- When riding in gloom approaching Hadrians Wall I said "hey Kev see Hadrians wall" - who's he came the quick reply!

Yes Kev - Hadrians Wall ! 

- When Kev rode back 2 kms to find his multi tool he thought he'd dropped only to get lost and find on his eventual return that the tool was still in his front handlebar bag!

- When I awoke at Kettlewell in the middle of the night hearing liquid splashing on the carpet I yelled out "Kev stop weeing on the carpet" to quickly realise that it wasnt Kev but the high ceiling window hed left open in the rain

- The look on our recent B&B owners face when Kev walked into the loungeroom after being offered a cuppa forgetting he still had on all his wet weather gear and muddy shoe covers

- The delight on his face every time he hops on his bike

- The no of sites missed as he focusses on the road "what major army barracks" he said the other day as we cycled past a barracks about the size of a melb suburb !

- The smile he gets when he receives an email from friends

- The look Kev got when asked at the bar tonight what he'd like - when he said "nuthin" which I interpreted as I'm not having a drink but I'm looking at the menu thx - the bar tender interpreted
as someone just being a smart A and went away singing "happy people ...

Yes it is true that if he could he'd bed up with his Canondale given his love and affection but for the moment he has to settle for me!

Day 15 - Richmond to Once Brewed - 110 kms

Oh the inhumanity of it all - zero visibilty, drenched by bucketing rain, shivering while crossing the nthn pennines and all of this in the middle of summer !

The day started well enough with almost flat Australian road conditions to Egglestone on the border of the pennines.

There after the fun ceased a grinding 5 km climb provided for great views of the bleak surroundings and while a top descent followed so did yet another climb.

We lunched in Stainhope and watched as the predicted rain arrived. With no option but to push on the conditions became incredibly uncomfortable with the mist and cold conditions feeling more like winter

We splatters on for 3 hours to Allenheads where after flooding the local tea shop simply by sitting down we realised that with the gloom setting in it was going to be another push to get to our accommodation on time

A big effort up the neat vertical bank road at Haydon Bridge and a fly across the open fields saw us arrive finally at our hostel at 730pm with the cardboard cut outs of historical roman figures looking more alive than kev!

The only pub for miles is right next door at twice brewed where a no of rituals were performed aimed towards changing this lousy weather and preventing me from losing it !

Remote scenery

Day 14 - Kettlewell to Richmond - 50kms

Yes you read correctly only 50kms after a rest day. The plan called for a larger circuit of the Yorkshire dales but a road detour, mt Everest climb out of Kettlewell that called for use of pitons, threatening rain and that great old aussie spirit " I can't be buggered" contributed!

Steep climb out of Kettlewell !

Would have been in despair at 30% road leaving Kettlewell if not for the fact we were passed by an 80yr old lady out for her morning walk! Climb over the dales brought spectacular brooding scenery while the descent on narrow lanes was akin to TT racing on the Isle of Man.

Exited the dales at midleham with 870 people and 500 racehorses mentioned on population board.

Had our daily occurrence of rain just outside Richmond giving me the opportunity to call into a bike shop to get slipping gears (that had me headbutting the handlebars) and bearings in pedal replaced.

Cycled through impressive Richmond where locals helped direct us to accommodation at Whaston Springs some 5kms further on. Henley immediately impressed b&b owner but walking into loungeroom with cleats and wet cover boots on!

Cycling wasn't finished for the day as after a shower we cycled into next village 3 kms away to have dinner at the local pub as there was no eateries near the b&b.

For those considering doing a hill climb after a full meal and a couple of pints don't!

Getting lost in the U of K

To the tune of French kissing on the USA by Blondie -

" Getting lost in the U of K getting lost in the U of K ey hey ey hey
" Getting lost in the U of K makes my head spin the whole next day ey hey ey hey

Youre tired wet and cold and digging mud out of your ear when your country lane splits into 2 one uphill the other downhill. Your soggy map with yesterday's lunch stains does not have enough detail to help and the split is not signposted either the sign wad stolen or not put back after ww2 finished!

It's also getting dark and you're hungry but hey you take it in your stride because this is England and the price you must pay for cycling some of the most absurdly beautiful countryside scenery you'll see anywhere in the world!

In a perverse way it can be almost humorous - signs with weathered letters that require an understanding of Braille or hangman to read, others that require use of garden shears or a dose of agent orange as they lie buried in 50 years of undergrowth then there's the sign that does exist but has been turned around 180 degrees by some cycle hating adolescent!

I would laugh but I'm often in tears or an apoplectic fit cursing the English, cursing my map or just generally cursing the absurdity of riding unsupported with accommodation prebooked- then magically the destination appears we shower and dine we even smile about the days dramas and like the idiots we are we get up and do it all over again !

Easy to get lost !

Kevs World!

I'm sure that someone told me that England was flat, might have been 2 bob leedham, no hills , no wee pinches, all downhill with a tailwind (yeah right!)

If you can manage to lift your eyes from the bitumen quite often you are greeted with speccy scenery, rolling hills, grazing livestock, magnificent old mansions and more bloody hills!

The over supply of no sign posts kept the Big blokes eye on the map reading job and I'm sure I picked up a few ozzie expletives from as far away as 6kms.

If it wasn't for the locals I'm sure we'd be just outside Moscow by now theve been very helpful - maybe the sight of 2 crying adults swayed their judgement!

The weather has been lest than kind to us so far and I can fully understand who the poms are whetting up to emigrate - 3 weeks in and maybe just maybe we've had 1 day of 20c, 6 days of riding so far have been wet. Our pommie suntans have been put on hold for a while.

So far the only diff between summer and winter that I can make out is sometimes sons during winter as the temp is the same!

It really is a beaut country with s huge variety of terrain and vistas incl quaint villages and narrow almost anorexic country lanes and lots of people with funny accents who can't believe that a couple of silly Old Aussies (mike officially became old of 14 July at 55) would ride the length of the UK.

I've never received so many weird looks from bar tenders when I order a pint of OJ I must grow 3 heads when I reach the bar. "do you want it with soda - how about cordial - no i want orange juice! If I ask for pepsi Max that would probably get up their noses even more.

It's been tough in stages but I've enjoyed every minute so far.

Best wishes to everyone in Oz I look forward to reading your comments on the blog - ps Bob - Mike and I have a rival day for mud Mtn in terms of a forgettable but memorable day no Red mud !

Day 13 - Rest day Kettlewell

Yes I know what you're thinking - only 2 days riding and another bloody rest day, what's up with us!

To be truthful it was preplanned with aim to cycle without panniers around the dales but after 2 arduous days the consensus was stuff it !

It was a little hard to find much to do on this beautiful but small town with only 2 shops. We settled instead for some bike maintenance with Henley suggesting his relinquish of the yellow jersey was caused by bike not rider

The most rivetting moment for the day when kev made a huge comeback to tie our marathon scattergories match!

It was an ideal chance to dry out/ chill after the last 2 days of heavy rain and arduous riding!

For the record revenge was sweet as in updating the blog I needed to access the only available wifi spot in town - my consumption of alcohol (hey I can't type fast) a goodwill gesture succeeded in keeping Henley awake most of the night as I made I think something
Like 8 visits during the night to the toilet - must be all the stress I'm under !

Day 12 - Mankinholes to Kettlewell - 75 kms

I adopted a decidedly calm and almost spiritual outlook after yesterday's debacle in order to maintain sanity.

The day started well enough kev only farted 3 times in the morning in our narrow 6 by 4 ft room but thankfully the pungent smell of drying clothes negated it

We even had 1 hour of clear weather in between the 7 hours it pissed down not to mention the Tibet type winds

We didn't even get officially lost although kev did when he went back to find his supposedly lost multiple tool only to find it in his handlebar bag on his eventual return

The bikes didn't break down if you call kev having no brakes hurtling down hills and me headbutting my handlebars with slipping gears not breaking down

We even arrived early at 530pm having cycled through beautiful scenery well beautiful if you could see through horizontal rain

3 pints a couple of painkillers and the above positive spin makes me feel so much better. Kev is back in love with england and his bike and I'm just grateful we have a rest day

1000 kms done and shortly into Scotland where we can expect even tougher conditions - oh the joy of it all!

A welcome pint in Kettlewell

Day 11 - Hope to Mankinholes - 90 kms

The so called cycling holiday became a tortuous ordeal on a day that turned both Kev and self into cursing madmen.

After the previous days beautiful weather we started almost predictably in rain climbing out over the Strine moors complete with 25% gradients that were he'll uphill and bloody dangerous downhill. The strain took it's toll with Mikes chain snapping on an Everest like climb taking us nearly an hour to fix something that should have been straightforward and that was with the help of a passing cyclist

On the move again and with frequent showers we walked more than cycled through Slaithwaite and Sowerby (can't believe Monika rode down these hills with little or no brakes)

To top off a bad day the last 5 kms to our accommodation were completed in failing light on a bridleway that made the off road riding in Tibet look easy.
Frequently lost and calling into farmhouses, cold and wet, near dark and exhausted we swore our way finally into Mankinholes arriving after 9pm having only done 90kms in nearly 12 hours!

Kev arrived barely able to speak to the hostel staff while I repeatedly stating never again !

Day 10 - Rest day in Hope

Awoke to magnificent sunny day (typical as not riding). Walked to nearby Castleton with spectacular hills and Tors evident. Played tourist taking in the views and a local ice cream before walking back to b&b with Mike checking in his bike for another new disc pads testament to the hilly conditons

Kev at Peveril Castle

Mike & Monika in Hope

Generally a much needed quiet day with washing and bike maintenance the go.

Had dinner at the Old Hall hotel apparently complete with own ghost
and paranormal activity looking forward to shorter days riding tommorrow!

Day 9 - Rugeley to Hope - 110kms

A good ride to start the day to Uttoxeter only to find bike shop closed for the day. Continued fine navigational form by mistakenly ending up on main Ashbourne road competing with trucks and high speed traffic.

Climbed into Peak district with magnificent views of surrounding countryside. Also took the 15km segment of the Manifold trail and while scenic felt like you were riding over railway sleepers. Mike celebrated his birthday with a bad bout of surrounds on the trail.

Some significant climbs from Taddington with stunning scenery in sunny weather.

Kev started to feel the pinch close to Hope having skimped on lunch protein and staggered into Hope. Caught up with Monika who made the trip up to help celebrate Mike's birthday

Day 8 - Clun to Rugeley - 110kms

After little sleep good cycling in mild weather through Craven Arms to the very old and very beautiful town of Much Wenlock for a morning cuppa (yes Henley is becoming a traditionalist )

It was a short cycle to the world heritage site of Ironbridge (it's weird doing the trip in reverse having already been through with Monika).

Mike at Ironbridge

Kev cycled off having lost his glasses while I needed emergency repairs as
My tyre was splitting from the rim with a blowout imminent

Kegs gps finally came good guiding us through Penkridge across the beautiful Cannock chase to Rugeley arriving at 730pm to a room with only 1 double bed!

Doing our best to look serious while wearing Lycra and with Kev with light on his helmet we argued for appropriate bedding!

Had meal at a nearby pub where Kev was accosted
By a drunk pom who was loudly arguing that all Aussies were convicts and happy ones at that !

Was verbally assaulted by Henley who spent an hour trying to find his doona before finally realising that hed put it on bed and I was sleeping on it!

Day 7 - Welsh Bricknor to Clun 95 kms

Was relieved to pickup detailed maps from a father and son team who'd just done the leg in the opposite direction

Bypassed Hereford and cycled through Leominster travelling near the Wye river. Late afternoon became tiring climbing and descending before threatening weather forced us to don our full wet weather gear. With little left in the tank cycled into beautiful Clun about 6.30pm stocking up with food before finding the youthhostel in scenic surroundings.

Mike in Clun after a hard days cycle

Literally crapped ourselves when a fighter jet flew over the hostel at about 50ft apart from this amusing incident a fairly uneventful day.

On the road !

Have you ever wondered what goes through the mind of a long distance cyclist? I have found a fairly routine pattern in the UK - it usually starts with "I wonder if that 5th sausage I had for breakfast will last the first hill"!

Comfort and safety thoughts soon follow listening for any unusual bike sounds which can be difficult with ambient traffic and Henley's flatulence - wondering whether that slab of cream you put on will actually feel later like you havent messed yourself and generally hoping that those passing trucks don't suck the surrounding countryside and you with it into their vortex.

There comes a spiritual period before lunch - the vivid colours of the landscape, being at one with nature and self a heartbeat that follows a universal rhythm then periodically screams in protest.

For me it's usually after lunch that I become philosophical eg - why is that a country that had engineers like Brunel in the 18th c still can't work out how to design a shower that doesn't alternatively scald then freeze you !

There's a period of nothingness other than the sound of the spinning hub that usually signals time for a cuppa and a chance to get off road from drivers that although incredibly courteous think speed signs are there for advice or as a minimum requirement!

The day finishes with thoughts of loved ones and friends, the days journey and a hope that tonight Kev will let me have the right side of the bed!

Day 6 - Priddy to Welsh Bricknor - 108 kms

A good ride through chew magna to outskirts of Bristol where Kev got his 2nd official tour warning this time for riding his bike over the speccy clifdon suspension bridge when he should have been walking it.

Kev & the spectacular Clifdon Bridge

Thx to some great local advice we rode around Bristol rather than through it crossing the Chepstow bridge mid afternoon. A great ride took us to the evocative ruins of Tintern Abbey beautifully situated in the Wye valley before a back breaking climb over Offas dyke to Coleford.

The shortcut !

We found Welsh Bicknor by having to cross a disused railway bridge and ride along a riverside bush path as a road entry to the youth hostel would have required a 10pm detour

Tintern Abbey - en route !

As it was we became imposters for the night mixing it with kids about a third our age - so far over 500kms travelled !

Some magic moments !

Henley turning his lights on in the gloom on day 1 - a pack light a helmet light and a tail light with all going he resembled a mobile Xmas tree!

The look on kegs face in the dark at 930p
When I told him I'd finally found a B&B in st.austel after 12 previous failures - priceless !

Mike commenting crossing the river fiery on ferry "gee that guy with the beard and pipe looks like s statue" when taking his photo - he is you idiot said Kev!

Kev nearly falling into the sink at clun when jet fighter flew low level overhead!

Kev hearing "car back" somehow as an instruction to turn left and go up a bloody big hill all by himself - a mexican stand off followed with him not wanting to come down and me not wanting to go up!

Mike stating at intersection that he could see Ashton and ku ton on the
Map but not Ashton lucton as the sign said - maybe they are 2 towns "oh yeah you're right "

Henley at a country estate where other guests were having afternoon high tea scaping clotted cream off his knife with fingers and eating it - you can take the boy out of the country but you can't take ....

Kev while riding saying gee those animals smell - I reckon if the cows had to bed with Kev like I have been they'd be saying the same thing !

Looe - Cornwall

Day 5 - Exford to Priddy - 110 kms

Successfully left Exford with Kevs gps guiding us the 10yds from the B&B to the road! A few climbs including a big one over the Quantocs descending to forgettable Bridgewater for lunch.

Requested off 2Bob (who keeps telling me he can pull strings) a movement of the space station to locate us as we were lost again thx to poorly signposted roads. Eventually found beautiful Cheddar gorge as the sun made a rare appearance.

Cycling near Cheddar

We climbed the gorge some 4 steep kms before finding our accommodation at Priddy just as the town was wrapping up
It's weekend folk festival with escapees from the 70's evident everywhere. Mike took a pint listening to the music while Kev used the 2 hours by sending 2 emails - what's changed !

Kevs World !

No wonder poms flood out to oz as I reckon they must only see 3 days os sun per year. I've never heard so many words for the same thing - drizzle, precipitation, showers let's face it wet is wet !

The hills have been doing my head in this country is far from flat particularly Devon and Cornwall if I don't come back 25kgs lighter I haven't been trying.

In between the views of Tarmac and hedges there has been some speccy views of fields old English houses and of course rain clouds.

The gps has been terrifically helpful to date getting us from our B&B to the road some 10 yards might help if I charge the thing.

How do peopledrink pommie beer I'd rather drink mikes wee !

Love your emails keep in touch

Polperro Cornwall

Day 4 - Rest day Exford

Exford

Oh what a joy to rest aching muscles, clean dirty clothes and generally laze around with a rare appearance of the English sun.

Used time to chisel mud collected on bike from yesterday's ride along the Tarka. A general check showed the bikes are already showing signs of wear with the brakes taking a hammering from the descents as we've learned that most downhills have a hairpin bend hidden in them.

We even sought inspiration by watching the Tour de France realising that the 17% gradient road leaving Exford was going to be one he'll of a challenge

Day 3 - Okehampton to Exford 95kms

Lost on our way to Exford !

Despite threatening conditions some good speed roads helped us kick off the day with easy mileage. We were slowed down by the surface of the scenic Tarka trail that more resembled a mud trail than a rail trail thankfully it turned to bitumen allowing us to take in the magic countryside and river scenery heading into chaotic Barnstable.

Kev was relieved of his temp navigation duties when walking straight past our turning pt a massive roundabout "what roundabout" said Kev.

More climbing took us into Exmoor where a serious navigational error saw us take a 15km detour and ride walk a couple of 20+ % roads.

We finally arrived at the quaint town of Exford looking (mud splattered) like cave men and really hanging out for a rest day after 2 days of pretty serious climbing !




detour

Day 2 - St.Austel to Okehampton 100kms

Kev at Fowey

With wrinkled and rested bodies we left a busy St Austel negogiating some stiff climbs on to and through the beaut Cornish village of Fowey to Looe where the sun made a rare but welcome appearance. Still climbing we skirted Bodmin moor to take the granite rail trail over the spectacular Melton viaduct into Okehampton arriving at the slightly more respectable time of 7pm and this time finding our accommodation albeit on a bloody big hill just out of the city centre.

The serious climbing had it's affect on Kev who looked like a John Wayne stand in by days end.

We were well received at our b&b by the owner who doubles as the Okehampton magistrate who sought to dispel our fears at leaving our bikes relatively unsecured by stating "don't worry I'm on pretty good terms with the local crims"!

Day 1 - lands end to St.austel 105kms

Kev at Lands End

A near disaster day. Started in drizzle that soon became torrential thx to kegs previous comments that he'd brought the good weather !

Add in bike problems that delayed us in Penzance strong winds, energy sapping climbs, a 10pm detour after getting lost and a desperate search for accommodation in a fully booked St.austel that had us on the St still At 9pm and you get a pretty good picture of our state of mind at days end !


Our one saviour was the wind a tailwind making us both marvel at Monika's recent efforts in the reverse direction.

In the end we were saved by a b&b now resembling a chinese laundry -kev who aged 10 years (some say impossible) summed the day up by saying at least you get a tent and rice in Tibet!

On the road !

Another day another epic ! With Kev getting toey & the London cultural police in hot pursuit after he disrupted an important ordination by continuing to text on the steps of St.Pauls despite approaching eminent  bishops and thousands of churchgoers - "be buggered said Kev I've got a text to send to Monny" - we're off to Lands End.

Our first day to Golant is some 120 kms - weather though is looking a bit dodgy !

Will it be a baptism of fire for Kev as he battles the narrow lanes, crap weather and high speed traffic - will Uk drivers learn new words and new hand signs - find out by staying tuned to the blog !

Cheers Mega

ps for those wanting a minute by minute description Kev's new phone no. in Uk is

+447874603408